You?�ll scent it before you location it: a cloud of savory steam increasing from metal vats, thick with skewered eomuk (?�묵) gently bobbing like they?�re soaking inside a hot tub of umami.Why it hits: It?�s a hug disguised as street food. Warm, salty, and what precisely your soul demands at two AM?�or following hiking up 100 stairs in J